Akaroa by Maureen McCann
When looking to the future, the poorest point of reference is often the present. We may not know where we will end up, but one thing is almost certain – it will be different than today. So where to look? What tarot card and tea leaves, oracles and innards, give the best of readings? Or are we best to look at trends and background drivers; those of the past and those that are emergent.
For a start, rightly or wrongly, when asked to put some thoughts together on the future of tree crops in New Zealand, I ignored the present and went back to the past. I have in front of me a facsimile edition of John Evelyn’s (1620 – 1706) Silva: a Discourse of Forest Trees. It is a hefty tome, and apart from its ungainly size, is difficult to read until you get your head around the esses (s) that look like effs (f).
A discourse on forest trees we might think has as its focus that apparently perennial favourite product from the tree – its wood. And that is where we’d be wrong. From the days before the early Norman kings, who gazetted the “New” Forest, back beyond the Roman poet Virgil, forest trees have had many functions, and timber was but one. Variety is everywhere; uses vary, sites vary, preferences vary. Virgil writes in the VII Eclogue:
For Bacchus, vines; for Hercules, poplar,
For Venus, myrtle; for Apollo, his bays:
Phyllis loves hazels – so long as she loves them,
Bay-tree nor myrtle shall get more praise.
Ash queens it in the woods, and stone-pine in gardens
By streams the poplar, on heights the fir-tree.
Contrast that range to the forests from which we produce today; pine, ubiquitous pine, with a single purpose of wood, ubiquitous wood.
Evelyn, writing not long after the Stuart Restoration in 1660, does talk of timber with page after page on the qualities of each species, and its silviculture. But like Virgil, Evelyn is also concerned for all the values and meanings of forest lands and trees; from acorn mast to maple liquor, from mulberry berries to the appetite of silk worms, from the many virtues of Juniper berries to orchard fruits, various oils to fungi, even to the qualities of fruit blossoms and herbs. Evelyn, unlike the classical writers, doesn’t talk so much about the nymphs and other tree people. Section after section records “Its qualities and uses in physics and otherwise” (or “Its qualities and ufes in phyfics and otherwife” if you prefer).
Perhaps the most famous section of Silva is Evelyn’s discourses on apples; more particularly their use in the important manufacture of cider. The recipes are, apparently, excellent, and one might judge that Evelyn was a little obsessed with a draft he thought left that elixir of hops in the dark. He waxes:
Innumerable are the Virtues of Cider, as of Apples alone, which being eaten raw, relax the Belly,
especially the sweet, aid Concoction, depress Vapours; being roasted or coddled,
are excellent in hot Distempers, resist Melancholy, Spleen, Pleurisy, Strangury, and being sweetened with Sugar,
abate inveterate colds. These are the common effects even of raw Apples;
but Cider performs it all, and much more, as more active and pure. In a word, we pronounce it for the
most wholesome Drink of Europe, as specifically sovereign against Scorbute, the Stone, Spleen and what not.
You’re convinced, I’m sure. Moving back in time from Evelyn, the age of kings saw forests as the producers of green produce (Vert) and game (Venison). A forester was both game keeper and verderer; charged with ensuring sufficient quality and quantity for the hunt, for the uses of woods ranging from ships to cart wheels and charcoal for the forge, and feed through hazel, mast, mushrooms, and winter staples like sweet chestnut. Few communities could survive without the values created by a local forest. This was an age when transport and trade distances were so much shorter than today. The substitutes of wood by energy-intensive metals and concrete had yet to appear, as had the substitution by mass-produced industrial agriculture from distant lands – our colonial trade revolution – for those local forest food crops once essential. That is the picture in Europe from the height of the colonial days up until the industrial trends of the post World War II world; a move from local diversity to international commodity.
Why did we change? Well, in this country perhaps we have not moved from the more diverse and varied to the less varied. If anything, we in New Zealand have moved the other way. Remember the bulk baking drawer-bins in our mothers’ kitchens in the 1960s; one for sugar, one for flour, bought in bulk, both white. New Zealand was part of what the food sociologists refer to as the ‘first food regime’, ever extending colonial lands producing mutton, butter, cheddar, and strong wool for the motherland. We never had the sophistication of local food production to the extent it had developed over the centuries in Europe. We’ve all heard the stories of olive oil sold over the chemists’ counters.
Europe was also affected by the substitution of the diverse local for the bulk international commodity. The cheapness of mass production would have been part of the shift. A recent documentary on food systems, “We feed the world”, made the point that a tonne of road grit has a higher value than a tonne of wheat. People have in the recent past wished for ever cheaper food, a loaf of bread for $3.50 instead of $4.00, and never mind either the quality, or the ‘value’ of knowing from whence it came, and whose hands were involved. Once a commodity producer is in a buyer’s market asking for ever cheaper product, the farmer or forester is forced to increase ‘economic efficiency’ by increasing scale, or narrowing and concentrating their product lines, or by reducing the social and environmental standards of their production. There be dragons.
But the times they are a-changing, in New Zealand as well as Europe. Quality, Choice, and Local may not have completely shifted the tables on Quantity, Commodity standard and Distant, but it at least is not longer a choice of one. We now sup our fair trade coffee while eating pesto on ciabatta bread with Palma ham and kalamata olives. And there are those who are more concerned with the quality and experience than the cost. In the past it would have been strong Choysa tea and a sausage roll without the onion. In Europe the move has been from the past world of Virgil and John Evelyn – local and diverse – to being one of the major markets for global food commodity, and now back to diversity. We are trending that way with them, but without the history to which we can hark back.
So what does this all mean for the future of tree crops? Nothing if not an optimistic ride on the back of positive trend toward greater discernment and taste experience, with forest greens, nuts, fruits and fungi part of the mix. It also represents a growing appreciation of the sources of our food; that there is more meaning there than just the cheapest calorific value. The taste of a high country herb-eating meat is discernable from ryegrass-fed lamb. People will pay for the difference and the experience, as they will for organics, the fastest growing food group in European supermarkets.
It is notable that in the course of less than a decade, the local food restaurants in Central Otago have significantly increased their demand for local thyme-fed rabbit, pheasant, local wines, choice cheeses, nuts, and processed condiments. The local dining experience has become part of the tourist sector, in Central Otago, the West Coast, Nelson, Marlborough, from the Wairarapa to Gisborne, Bay of Plenty to Auckland. That experience has also become very much part of the weekly life of local people, backed up by farmers’ markets.
The trend to discernment and taste experience is complemented by two other wider issues. The first relates to growing concerns for energy inputs and chemicals; particular as they affect freight and the debateable energy-efficiency of high-input commodity production. Vandana Shiva, the Indian food system critic, strongly argues that we are not so much eating these cheap commodities as we are eating oil: oil in transport, oil in the chemicals and fertilisers applied, oil in the manufacture and use of machinery that have substituted for methods more sensitive to the land. Once these broader challenges are factored in to the system, these types of commodities may not be as ‘efficient’ and competitive as they may at first appear.
The second issue relates to the realisation that the ‘terroir’ of land – the special properties of topography, climate, soil and even tradition and culture that underlie practice, which are all required to produce the best – requires us to place a fine sieve on the land. It is ‘terroir’ that confers not just quality but also tradition and meaning to the exceptional wines of parts of France. The Grand Cru wines are the antithesis of commodity. The more production-focused species of ryegrass, Romney marsh and radiata pine may be relatively insensitive to site, but quality and the development of a mystique around fine food is anything but insensitive to either biophysical site, or local community. The scales of these emerging food sites to which tree crops belong may be measurable in parts of hectares, rather than hundreds of hectares.
So what is our future? Arguably more opportunities than threats. The trends in consumer preferences from price to quality are positive. The characteristics of tree crops suiting relatively small scales are positive. The emerging issues represent more of a threat to commodity producers, more especially to those that use high energy inputs to produce low value products. What is a threat to them is another opportunity to the value producer. Trees have that wonderful characteristic of not requiring high inputs, and some trees and woodlands can produce high value products.
Although we may lack a history of the diversity that Virgil and Evelyn knew, with that combination of high value and low energy input we can make our own.
Chris Perley
An edited version of this article was published in TreeCropper, journal of the New Zealand Tree Crops Assn, May 2007




















I am a forester; in the old sense of the word. I want to reclaim the name, to give it again the sense of guardianship of a people and a place which is spatial, structural, dynamic, and timeless; a guardianship which sees our short stay here as one step along a path, which sustains a place of function that gives of multiple values, and shifts in shape and form through four dimensions … and others of the mind. A forester used to be far more than an agronomist. They were verderers (responsible for the green), guardians of the forest common, and common law, and the rights and responsibilities of commoners, and with equal status to the Sheriff.
Forests are as Alfred North Whitehead argued for all objects. No forest has a simple spatial or temporal location. They shift, they extend, they change, they are influenced from their position within a geography, a history, and through the changing lens of humanity and other beasts. They are complex, adaptive, alive, and beautiful. They are verbs, not nouns. They are defined by process, not structure. “
Podocarp-Hardwood remnant adjacent to a frost flat (the clearing) beneath the Kaweka Range, inland Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand. As a child it was nothing short of a wonderland of sense and mind-changing experience. There is energy, life, breathing, pulsing, tenor, bass and baritone sounds of boughs and birds, multi-scented, multilayered, multi-coloured, moving, swaying, height, awe, grandeur, and welcoming grace. Because I was no artist – perhaps those best at knowing and representing this sense of place – I chose a future as a forester, for the sake of forest ecology. Ball’s Clearing is a forest as a system, subjective, moving, death and renewal. There is no factory here, unless it is one trapped inside someone’s mind.
Whitehead even had a phrase for ‘becoming’, for being influenced by a moment such as a boy’s visit to a rich forest ecosystem. An ‘actual occasion’ is this process of becoming. It is not a mere event. In complex systems theory today we might refer to it as the adapting of a complex, me.
At a time when we are governed by opportunists, expedience, selfishness and the narrowness and short-term perspectives of money, we do need a re-examination of what it is to be ‘civilised’. I do not think we can hope to survive if our current dominant values continue to reign, as they have since what Bryan Bruce referred to as the
More than that even, thinking about our grandchildren represents what it is to be ethical in the sense that almost all ethical theories are concerned with doing the right thing by a community and not just for yourself.
are. The loss of purpose created by working within an autocratic money-obsessed organisation destroys our sense of self, as well as culture.
a type of civilisation that emphasises hierarchy, control, colonialism, exploitation, objectification of others, and the loss of a sense that there is more out there than just the physical. If the only meaning is money and market transactions, then there can be no hope.
Sane social and economic thinkers like
The work of Sen et al. demonstrates that if you want a strong economy, then build a strong society. Since the neo-liberals believe there is no such thing as society, and we are all greedy, calculating individuals out for ourselves, then it follows – for them – that there is no need to build anything that is social, let alone a social quality. So they degrade it, or they ask with smirking superciliousness to give us a value for these things so they can put them in their models (true Oracles apparently). What nonsense. What price do you put on trust, or justice? (I once replied, OK $17 Trillion. To which they replied, you’ve made that up, it has no relevance. To which I replied, and so I have, just as you made up zero. We are both wrong – though mine might still be an underestimate – but our choices are logically the same – a baseless choice of some random number, where the whole model and number is completely irrelevant to governance.)
are so tired of it all that we do nothing constructive. We become destructive. We lose our sense of permanence. Rather than adapt for the uncertainties of the future, we cling to the relative certainties of the now. Rather than strategise and think, we count our beans and hoard for the inevitable disaster; like the bookkeeper or Treasury official who believes that what is cheapest is best, who prink and save until all falls about them. Or we go the gold rush and the Viking way; drilling, mining, selling, exploiting, degrading. Clearfell the mighty Kauri forests for the benefit of a few today and the loss to many, many more, now and into the future.
From the days of Holyoake, the values within politics in New Zealand and around the Western World have steadily devolved from the sense of a functioning community and place that were reinforced by the trials of the depression and WWII, into a sales job to justify short-term immorality.
The world is more complex system than machine, so expect tipping points and uncertainty. Seek the lessons from history. Easter Island and Sumeria. Grand Banks cod. The repeated ecological and social collapses of environmentally-fragile Asia Minor at scales from valley systems to states. The appeal by the Athenian political revolutionary Solon to control soil erosion in 600 BCE to no avail, repeated by Plato’s lamenting a lost Arcadia through human folly. But if you are ‘rational’, ‘asocial’, and ‘utility maximising’ – three bizarre tenants of the Chicago School economic church – then the future beyond our life doesn’t really matter.
The upshot is that a professional forester is marinated in a ‘virtue’ or a ‘duty’ ethic to sustain the yield of a forest. Otherwise, what is the point, where is the need for a first principles understanding of what makes up a forest system? Just cut, and move on. Sustainable yield and multiple use are the themes – or were thirty years ago – though even these themes limit the imagination of a forest to a ‘set of resources’ to measure and whose cut is allocated annually. There are many, many problems with that ‘scientific management’ view. Thinkers such as 
The point is, this happens. It particularly happens when short-term greed and power trumps the local social virtues and duties and meanings of a place. The justification is almost always utilitarian – the practice of applying ‘utility’ to a system, defined as a dollar (the reference to the referent ‘happiness’ – stifled gag), heavily discounting the future, and assuming that the ‘good’ thing to do is what comes out at the bottom of the spreadsheet, bolstered by the number being at least three significant figures, providing the delusion of truth.
We live in the age of utility and what is referred to as the ‘rational choice’ theory of policy making, where individuals ought to act as selfish utility maximisers, and we are lead to believe they truly do act this way. The irony is, of course, that all the rhetoric actually encourages this Ayn Rand world view. Our love affair with rational choice is in part because Western policy making at least is dominated by the power and ‘thinking’ of a narrow brand of economics, and big finance. In many contexts, that policy theory is fine. It can work. But as a universal approach it leads to unintended consequences that can encourage contrary behaviour to that expected.
We have already seen the perversity of utilitarian policy models with the 2012 reduction in the price of carbon. Rather than encourage social institutions that recognise land-based carbon in the form of soil humus, wetlands and woodlands as positive from all value sets – ethical, practical, environmental, social and financial; for the present and the future – we narrow the view to the financial and the present. Then when carbon prices fall, people are perversely incentivised to remove their pesky carbon, which they now ‘see’ as only valuable because they can trade it – not because it confers buffering against shocks, opportunities, reduced costs, improved returns, and happiness. Utilitarian approaches destroy or fail to build values, virtues, and a sense of duty to land and community – a land ethic – and encourage their very opposite. Never mind the land and community. It’s all about my bottom line today, and never mind tomorrow. Until tomorrow comes.
John Steinbeck’s Log from the Sea of Cortez tells the tale of a marine survey expedition to the Gulf of California on the eve of the Second World War. The marine biologist Ed Ricketts, better known as ‘Doc’ in Steinbeck’s Cannery Row, leads the team. Up until his recent renaissance as a greatly underestimated scientist, Ricketts was much vilified by those who prefer a narrower method because he refused to specialise, just as Darwin on the Beagle refused to, connecting biological diversity with local history, community, and geology. Darwin and Rickett’s shared approach was to focus on understanding the changing patterns and connections of particular places, rather than what Steinbeck refers to with disdain as ‘exact and narrow thinking’. Their declared intention was to go into the Gulf without limits to their curiosity,
to avoid at all costs the trait of specialists who see nothing they didn’t come to see.
The first is a failure to see opportunities under your very nose in the belief that having more than one value will inevitably involve a trade-off, a lose-lose – like clean water and farm production, profit and biodiversity, or community and economy. Focus too much and too narrowly, and you don’t see where all such things can co-exist; that we can create landscapes where we can combine functions and build mutual values. A case in point is a New Zealand forestry company that actually had a valuable mushroom present under some stands. When the stands were due to be felled, the highly valuable mushrooms were too much for the technocratic decision maker. The stand was felled because it was in the cutting programme. They could have had both but for the focus on the ‘efficiency’ of one.
a favour when we connect to complexity; when we put a little of ourselves into a place by nurturing and harvesting both ‘vert and venison’, by sitting and listening to the wind in the trees and how people ‘see’ and live within this microcosm, and by sharing stories and songs. We connect to people and place, sense things beyond the boundaries of the box, connect to values we may not have realised existed, and, if blessed, grow wise. “Only connect,” wrote E M Forster. Though I never did finish Howard’s End.

without the author or the title, just this memory of this amazing read so significant to my early path in life – to understand land.
and keeping ownership and community decentralised. Resilience is the way. No, that does not mean a large centralised irrigation dams and corporate ownership. It means the opposite.
world where it is all about mechanical determinism and the treatment of people and place as a ‘resource’ to allocate based on a utilitarian quantity you think is more real than a virtue such as care.
had kicked in. Reinforced by a life event that put me in a chair with wheels, and forced me out of the scents and sounds and wider ‘sense’ of being within a forest, within a community, within a landscape, within a universe of energy. I could commune in all but the former, and so perhaps the experience was heightened. And I had great people around who would haul me under canopies to commune. Then I discovered and studied philosophy, a natural home. And doors opened in policy and academia which connected me to people with great minds, and exposed to me the many,
many locked-in paradigms of belief (Thomas Kuhn has it right!) and new ideas. It’s not until we have lost something that we find some things.
Virtue”) that suggests some spiritual connection. Do they channel? Years ago, I would have scoffed, but I have felt something like that, and a sense of incoming energy that you could call a collective unconscious, or love. Or perhaps it’s the drugs they put you on when
you are induced into a coma? Or the body’s own euphoric chemical broth brought on by meditation, or extremes of stress.
11 days in a coma, and an awakening to something bigger than what we can perceive through the five senses.